I had an interesting conversation with a really good friend last night. He's been surfing for a long time, and will give me pointers when he sees some of my clips of me surfing on my instagram. I will always, always, welcome objective feedback for improvement. However, you will 💯 get a snarky head tilt and raised eyebrow if it feels like a personal critique.
I have always been a fan of using analogies when explaining myself. I think it's because when I was growing up I had a hard time communicating how I felt in first person narrative, so I always used an analogy.
So when people ask me what I love about surfing, or what surfing feels like, etc.. I say, surfing is like breathing with the ocean.
Sometimes it's these intensely meditative breaths where I lose myself. Sometimes it's like the ocean is screaming and Poseidon has carried those screams to shore. Sometimes it feels like the ocean is trying to cough something out of its lung and clear its passage. But when I get up, and I get on that face I feel home. I feel like I can finally breathe. If Poseidon is screaming, then you better fucking bet your ass that I scream when I ride that wave. If the ocean is zenned out, then when I carve the wave, I feel like I'm on my way to nirvana.
But this is just my way of relating to the ocean. It's beautiful, and amazing, and terrifying, and unknown. I have a new bruise everyday and more scars on my feet than I probably would have ever guessed. Ive been in dangerous situations**, and pulled stupid stunts. I have completely blown my own mind with what I have accomplished, and also am still incredibly humbled by what I have left to do.
Why do you do it? Why do you want to? What are you getting out of it? What drives you? Pushes you? Challenges you? Frightens you?
The ocean is home to me. Surfing, and catching a wave is like coming home after a long, hard, arduous, day. I went to 12 schools in 12 years. I don't have a place I call home. But I do have a feeling that I call home. And those breaths, screams, and gasps that I take with Poseidon, that is my home. I don't surf just because I want to, I surf because I have to. You know that feeling when you get home and you take your bra off and your boobs finally are released from titty prison? That sigh of relief, that you're finally in a safe place - that is home. That is surfing.
So find your analogy. Find your reason. And the reason my friend last night got my head cocked, eyebrow raised face, is because he thought my analogy was silly.
He thought that saying it's like the ocean is breathing makes it sound "cute" and doesn't take into effect the dangers of the sport.
But the thing is, theres always one last breath before you die. And there's nothing cute about that.
But he and I are good now. So go pick your analogy ❤️
** Re: the dangerous situation: if you ever find yourself under a pier with your board wrapped around a pylon - unstrap your leash from your ankle and swim with the current away from the pier.