Today I went to Santa Cruz with a friend to try out the new board! So many funny stories from today:
Story #1: I used the new roof rack I have for my car, but this is the first time I have set it up by myself. I used a roof rack last summer, but my friend was the one to get it on the car. I did not know that you have to twist the straps before buckling them in. At least, just the straps that touch the roof of your car. Do you want to know WHY you have to twist them? Because if you don't, the wind catches the edges of the straps, whips them on the roof of the car and it sounds like the most insane machine failure vibration. Santa Cruz is 90 minutes away. I was having panic attacks every 30 second. When I first got into my car and started driving I heard it, and pulled over and check the straps, they were super fucking tight, so I was like... maybe this is normal? Well it's terrifying.
When I parked my car at Steamers, I asked a random passerby (who totally looked like a surfer) if I had messed up on setting up the roof rack, and this was how I learned the rule to twist your straps. The drive back to Oakland was silent!
Story #2: My friend had sent me a pin of where she parked, and told me that she was going to paddle out at the stairs near there. Well, there are 2 sets of stairs, and I didn't see the second set, it was like 100 meters to the right (if im looking at the beach). So I go down the steps, paddle out and kind of paddle all around the break trying to find her. There was no "beach" or sand areas, the stairs lead straight into the water, so I couldn't just scope it out. I see that theres another break around this mesa to my left with a bunch of people and the waves are bigger (definitely more her style), and I ask someone if theres also a staircase to get over there. There was 😂. So I paddle back to the wrong staircase. Walk my ass up the side of the hill, 100 meters to my left and go back down another staircase, and paddle out again. Found her! She was confused why I took so long to meet up with her. She found the whole thing hilarious after I let her know what happened.
The board! So what is it like?! Well, it's a bit wider than what I'm used too, and holds more volume than what I'm usually riding. It does glide on the water really well, and I think it's a great testimate to my conditioning that I paddled with that baby for a few hours and didn't get too tired. But it is *heavy* feeling, and it was difficult to find the sweet spot on the board. I did catch a few waves, but I'm used to catching way more, especially with the conditions that there was. I just couldn't get *in* to the waves.
I did get some advice from a fellow surfer, because he saw how the new board has more rocker - more of a curve - to the board, so I need to get my nose lower while paddling for a wave. He told me to bend my legs up and back while paddling hard for a wave, and when I feel the wave catch under the board - straighten back out again. It was great advice and I caught a wave shortly after that. But this will be a new test to my upper body strength.
Honestly, in the next few months I'm gunna be so fucking jacked.