Testing My Patience


Yesterday at the beach was a full blown lesson in patience, and it started before I even got in the water. Manhattan Beach is gorgeous, and summer has started for a lot of kids, so the parking lots get full early and stays full. I cruise down there in the afternoon and I expect to wait a bit for parking.


Im chilling on the side of the lot, but still at the entrance (so theres space for a car to leave, but people also know I am waiting), when 2 cars come barreling into the lot. I'm annoyed but I assumed they would see the lot was full then turn around like a few other cars did. Nope. About 30 seconds later two cars pulled out and they both snagged those spots. I was heated. I honked, and one of the cars just honked back basically saying "Yeah IDGAF." Thankfully a few minutes later another car left and I got my spot. But I was just baffled at the audacity.


In surfing, etiquette is such an important part of being on the water, when etiquette in other parts of my life gets violated, it's fairly shocking. Thankfully neither occupants of those cars were going to be surfing, so I wouldn't have to deal with them again.


So I took my gear and paddled out to the Northside of the Pier. The Southside had some good waves but was covered in groms (young surfers) and the Northside was empty so I figured I would give them some space.


I really have gotten used to the new board so I was excited to be out on the water. Shortly after paddling out a dude paddled out to the lineup to join me. Like 5 minutes later, what you see in this video happens.





I am clearly paddling for this wave before he even turns his board around. I pop up first. This is my wave. He's even taking a left, so he 100% see's me. And he still tried to take it. I see him come at me so I grab my rails and pull back fast and we both crash off the wave. The fucking audacity.


In the water he was like, "Oh were you trying to go right?" Like... no?? Also don't try to play this off like you weren't being a tool. It's exhausting because shit like this happens all the time, especially to women because men for someone reason just assume we don't know what the fuck we are doing. But finally I have a video! I have proof of his douche-canoe behavior. Do I paddle for waves that other people paddle for? OF COURSE, but if they catch it I always pull back. Men just seem to have a really hard time with that concept when it's a woman going for it.


But wait - that's not all


I catch a right wave, take a wide turn and then try to cut back into the white water to avoid the pier. Success! Didn't get sucked under. But wait, a wave comes and I'm not back on my board yet. The breaking waves current pulls me right next to the pier. Another wave is right behind it. As it breaks, it picks up my board and smashes it into the pier leg. I shrieked. I pull

the leash and check my board. I didn't see any cracks on the top and my dumbass didn't check the fins. I'm like 90% positive it smashed the front not the back.


But after catching a few more and riding a wave in to shore, I see one of my fins is all wonky. It's completely bent. It's cracked through the fiberglass and needs to be repaired. I'm assuming it happened at the pier, but the douche canoe from earlier could also have done it.


So now this weekend will be spent learning about how to fix this. I'm actually excited about it. But holy shit, yesterday was a shit show from start to finish.

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