Sorry for the absense!


I haven't posted in a little while, and I'm sorry! Sorry to you, but also sorry to myself. The pain in my shoulder was getting a little ridiculous and although I didn't stop surfing, I was usually too sore afterwards to really write anything.


I got a great question on my last post asking me how exactly did I hurt my shoulder?


Back in November, I was paddling out for some big waves, and a wave broke in front of me and the break pushed me off my board. The next wave came and I just dove under the water - not on my board. There was a man about 20 feet feet from me and he had started to yell at me to keep a hold of my leash. I was super flustered that this guy was yelling at me so I just apologized. Okay first of all - there were like 5 people on the ocean that day, and there was no reason he couldn't have paddled out in a different spot, than right behind me. There were multiple entry points that day. Second - because I was so flustered I just started doing that - holding onto my leash when a wave would break on me when I wasn't on my board.


So what happened was a wave would come and if I didn't have time to jump on the board to turtle roll (flip the board over while I'm on it) I would dive under the wave and pull the board by the leash up close to me - but waves are big and powerful and would pull my arm in the direction of the shore. It didn't hurt at all for a while, but then it didn't stop hurting for almost two months.


Now when a wave comes and I don't have time to jump on the board and turtle, I'll turn my back to the wave and grab the nose of my board. If its a big closed-out set, I'll wait the set out in the white water (away from the lineup) until there is a lull then paddle out.


The biggest issue is after I've gotten off a wave and then I get hit by the next one behind me.


But it was all a learning process, but a really painful one.


Oh also, I now have a stomach ulcer from the Ibuprofen I was taking. So really it's just never ending 😂😂😂😂


Surf on, my ladies 🤙🏼

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