Today I took my board to my normal break - Linda Mar in Pacifica. Today the waves were ~slightly~ choppy, but they were building up quickly because of a sandbar. Getting past the break was honestly horrible, but the waves were fucking worth it.
This new board, because of the rocker to it, makes it turn like a charm, and theres a good weight to it, so the bigger waves don't overpower me. I grabbed maybe 8 waves today, and 2 of them were clearly overhead height. I was able to do some air-drops and cruise through to cut into the wave. Honestly it was such a fun session.
It is a heavier board though, so my arms were pretty tired at the end of my session - granted I do blame the sandbar for that. Because after every wave, you are basically trapped inside, and it takes a solid while to get past the ~dead zone~ where all the waves break on top of you.
I was pretty bummed yesterday that I only caught two waves, but honestly, I'm not surprised that I caught a bunch today. Big waves are my pride and joy. When everyone else tries to paddle over a wave I try to paddle into it, and with this board it's a really smooth ride. Yesterdays waves were on the smaller side, and with how heavy the board is - I was having to paddle really hard, but today it definitely felt more natural.
Next weekend I do plan on painting my board! So stay tuned 🤙🏼🤙🏼