So ya gurl was leaving the beach - done with my session. I have a habit that when I'm heading to shore, if the water hits between the top of my thighs and knees, I'll just walk in front of my board and tug it with my leash until the water gets low enough and then I'll grab it and put it on my head.
Anyways, this time as I turned around to grab my board, a wave broke on me and shoved me back and down into the sand. However, where I landed was not sand, and was in fact, a super chill big boulder.
The physical shock at first was intense. I couldn't move for about 10 seconds as my body just absorbed a direct hit to my spine and pelvis. As I got up and grabbed my board, it felt like my head was swimming and it was hard to stay upright. I got to my bag and sat down for a bit. And it hurt like a bitch.
After a little bit I could feel the skin swelling - letting me know I was going to get a beautifully colorful bruise. And boy oh boy do I have a bruise.
For the first day after, when I walked I would have this huge limp in my right leg and just any movement from my hip was not ideal. But here I am, about 4.5 days later and it's only a problem if theres direct contact on the bruise.
But you know what? I'll still probably be out there this weekend. A bruise and some pain is nothing compared to the unyielding love I have for the ocean and for surfing.